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From 1871-1875
David Hunter Strother, renowned artist and writer,
introduced the West Virginia Mountains of the Potomac
Highland region to readers across America through his
10-part series written for Harper's New Monthly Magazine
entitled "The Mountains." In this series, Strother (under
pen name Porte Crayon) opened to an international readership
the natural beauty and rugged adventure of the West Virginia
mountains. He also gave readers a glimpse into the life and
times of the people who lived there.
Strother's journey
began in 1851, taking him from his home in Martinsburg
through the agricultural valleys surrounding Petersburg,
Grant County, south to the 'Cliffs of Seneca' (Seneca Rocks
in Pendleton County), down under the tunnel of Gandy (Sinks
of Gandy in Randolph County) and into the heart of the Land
of Canaan where he accompanied the very first fishing
expedition into Blackwater Falls country.
Today, the West
Virginia Mountain Highlands encompasses eight counties in
the northeastern section of the state. Also known as the
Potomac Highland, the region is still rich in its historic
and natural offerings. Just as it took Strother four years
to explore and write about the region, it would probably
take just as long to rediscover it!
An historic tour
of this region cannot be done in a day, which gives you all
the more reason to come back. The easiest way to explore the
Mountains is from the points of the compass, entering the
region from the north, south, east and west.
From
I-68 Maryland, via US 220
US 220 follows the
Potomac River south through Keyser in Mineral County to the
intersection of US 50 at Burlington. Here corn is ground
into meal by a water-powered wheel at the Williamsport Grist
Mill (c. 1882) Tours are by appointment. Further west on US
Rt. 50, Romney, home to the largest Hopewell Indian burial
mound east of the Ohio River (c. 500-1,000 AD), is also the
site of the Confederate Monument and Cemetery. Romney saw
many a Civil War conflict, and the Fort Mill Ridge Trenches
are considered to be the best preserved in the state.
West of Romney on
WV 28, Fort Ashby is the only remaining fort (c. 1755) of a
total of 69 ordered to be built by Colonel George Washington
under the authorization of Governor Dinwiddie to protect the
western Virginia settlements. Heading south on US 220 into
the South Branch Valley, keep a watchful eye for the
numerous pre- and post-Civil War homes and buildings that
dot the Hardy County countryside.
From
I-64 West Virginia, via US 219
From Lewisburg, US
219 meanders along the mountaintops overlooking the
Greenbrier Valley and River, all the while gaining elevation
into the mountains of the Mountain Highland region. Droop
Mountain Battlefield State Park, an important battle site
and stop along the Civil War Discovery Trail, is just
outside of Hillsboro, birthplace of Pearl S. Buck, the first
American woman to win both the Pulitzer and Nobel prizes for
literature. Marlinton (Marlin's Bottom, 1747) is the first
recorded pioneer settlement built west of the Alleghenies.
Heading north, WV 66 leads to the restored town of Cass (c.
early 1900s) and the Shay-driven train, then veers off to WV
28 north to the Reber Radio Telescope at the National Radio
Astronomy Observatory in Green Bank (a National Historic
Landmark). Further along this route, US 250 (the
Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike Byway) intersects on its way
to Virginia. Time travelers into West Virginia turn left to
explore Camp Bartow Historic District and the restored
railroad depot in Durbin. US 250 maintains a northern
heading into Elkins, the town founded by Senator Stephen B.
Elkins and his father-in-law, Henry Gassaway Davis, who
brought the first railroad to West Virginia's rugged
Mountains.
From
I-81 Virginia, via WV 55
The trip along the
Highland Trace (WV 55) from Strasburg, VA offers glances of
pre- and post-Civil War architecture in the towns of
Wardensville and Moorefield. The Hardy County seat offers an
historic district worth taking an afternoon to
investigate.
Traveling south
through Petersburg (the same path Strother blazed 150 years
ago), Route 55/28 heads toward Seneca Rocks, the geological
formation along the confluence of Seneca Creek and the South
Branch of the Potomac, where evidence of early Native
Americans has been recently discovered at the location of
the new Seneca Rocks Discovery Center, operated by the U.S.
Forest Service. The Rocks were used during World War II for
training soldiers in mountain rock climbing techniques and
are popular today with rock climbers worldwide. At Seneca
Rocks, Highland Trace 55 becomes US 33 heading west through
Harman, location of the restored Day-Vandevander Grist Mill
(c. 1877) and into Elkins, home of Davis & Elkins
College. Seven of the structures on campus are listed on the
National Register of Historic Places.
From
I-79 WestVirginia, via US 33
Elkins is a
straight jaunt from I-79 on the newly completed section of
Corridor H (US 33). The Elkins Historic District is a blend
of 19th and early 20th Century architecture. Just outside
Elkins is the town of Beverly, the original county seat that
claims the oldest cemetery west of the Alleghenies. Nearby,
the Rich Mountain Battlefield Foundation holds a reenactment
every other year to commemorate the early engagement by Gen.
George McClellan who routed the Confederates holding the
pass over Rich Mountain. US 219 heads north from Elkins to
Parsons, the county seat of Tucker County. The courthouse,
built in 1900, is also on the National Register of Historic
Places. Further to the north, Thomas, and its newly
revitalized downtown Historic District, is a shopping mecca
for vacationers heading to Canaan Valley, the historic home
of West Virginia skiing and the
highly publicized mountain recreation noted by Strother so
long ago.
If your way home from
Canaan Valley takes you south toward Elkins via US Rt. 32,
stop on the southern rim of Canaan Valley (which, by the
way, is the highest elevated valley east of the Mississippi)
and look to your left. On July 5, 1941 the highest mountain
in Strother's Land of Canaan was dedicated to his memory
&emdash; Mt. Porte Crayon.
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